Building a simple oak coffee table

Why oak, and what you'll need

Oak is a forgiving timber for a first coffee table. It is hard-wearing, resists dents better than pine, and its open grain takes oil beautifully. This design is 1100mm long, 600mm wide and 450mm high — comfortable for most sofas. It uses simple butt joints reinforced with dowels, plus a top that is screwed on with slotted holes so the wood can move with the seasons. That last detail is essential for solid oak; ignore it and you may find cracks appear after a dry winter.

You will need:

• Pencil, tape measure, try square and marking gauge
• Tenon saw or fine-tooth handsaw
• Cordless drill and 3mm, 8mm and 10mm bits
• Countersink bit
• Dowel centres (or 8mm dowel pins with a point)
• 4 sash cramps or bar clamps, at least 900mm long
• Random-orbit sander and sanding discs (80, 120, 180, 240 grit)
• Sanding block and synthetic abrasive pad
• PVA wood glue
• 40mm wood screws and 8mm washers
• Danish oil or hardwax oil

Buy planed-all-round oak. For the top, four boards at 25mm x 150mm x 1100mm will glue up to the 600mm width. For the base, you need 70mm square legs and 20mm x 70mm aprons. Ask your timber merchant to prepare these sizes if you do not have a thicknesser or planer.

Cutting list and preparing the timber

Cut everything slightly over length, then trim to final size after checking for square. The cut list below assumes a finished top of 1100mm x 600mm x 25mm and a base frame that sits 50mm in from each edge.

• 4 legs: 70mm x 70mm x 425mm
• 2 long aprons: 20mm x 70mm x 860mm
• 2 short aprons: 20mm x 70mm x 360mm
• 4 top boards: 25mm x 150mm x 1100mm

Joint the edges of the top boards if they are not already square. A simple way is to clamp them together in pairs and plane the edges with a long plane, but many timber yards will do this for a small fee. Glue the boards into a panel, using cramps every 150mm and checking that the panel is flat. Leave overnight. Scrape off squeeze-out with a paint scraper, then sand the panel to 120 grit.

For the legs, mark a 425mm length from the top of each leg and cut square. The aprons should be cut to fit between the legs: 860mm for the long sides and 360mm for the short sides. This gives a frame measuring 1000mm x 500mm, which leaves a 50mm overhang all round.

Making the leg and apron frame

Dowels are the simplest strong joint here. Mark two dowel positions on each end of every apron, about 20mm in from the edges. Use dowel centres to transfer the marks to the legs. Drill 8mm holes 25mm deep in the apron ends and 20mm deep in the legs. Do not drill deeper than 30mm in the legs, or you may break through the side.

• Glue and insert 8mm x 40mm dowels into the apron ends.
• Offer the apron up to the leg, check for square, and tap together with a mallet and scrap block.
• Clamp the joint. Check the frame is square by measuring diagonally — the two measurements must match.
• Repeat for all four sides, working on a flat surface.
• Leave the frame to dry for at least two hours before moving it.

When the frame is dry, sand the joints flush. Do not round over the top edges of the legs yet; you will do that after the top is fitted.

Attaching the tabletop

Solid oak moves across its width. If you screw the top tightly to the aprons, the wood may split. Instead, drill 8mm holes through the aprons, then elongate them into slots about 12mm long using a round file or a 10mm bit. Use one screw per slot, with a washer under the head. Pre-drill the underside of the top with a 3mm bit.

• Centre the top on the frame. Aim for an equal overhang on all sides.
• Drill six slotted holes: two in each long apron and one in each short apron.
• Screw the top down, but only snug the screws. The top must be able to slide slightly.
• Check the top sits flat. If it rocks, shim the frame with a thin card until it settles.

Now use a block plane or sander to ease the sharp edges of the top and legs. A small 2mm chamfer is comfortable and prevents splintering.

Sanding and finishing

Good finishing starts with good sanding. Work through the grits in order, and do not skip from 80 to 240. Vacuum or brush away dust between grits. When you reach 180 grit, wipe the whole table with a damp cloth. This raises the grain. Once dry, sand again with 240 grit. This extra step is what gives oak its silky feel.

• Apply the first coat of Danish oil or hardwax oil with a lint-free cloth. Work in the direction of the grain.
• Leave for 20 minutes, then wipe off any excess. Do not let it pool.
• Wait 24 hours. Apply a second coat, then a third if the oak still looks thirsty.
• After the final coat, burnish with a synthetic abrasive pad. Avoid steel wool on oak — it can react with the tannins and leave black marks.

The table will be ready to use after 48 hours. For the first week, treat it gently. After that, re-oil once a year or when the surface looks dry. Wipe spills promptly, use coasters under hot mugs, and lift the table rather than dragging it across the floor. With that small amount of care, your oak coffee table will improve with age and become the piece everyone gathers around.